在德国开美容院是一种什么体验?长痘怎么办?简单懒人护肤法?都在这一篇里啦~

书友讲坛(总第143期)

时间:2020年12月26日 德国13-15点(中国20-22点)

形式:ZOOM 在线讲座

参与人数:25

主题: 我在德国经营美容院

如果喜欢我们的活动,也欢迎报名2021年1月31日举办的由德国华人书友会携手五大公众号博主助力的求职活动。详情见文末海报,

主讲嘉宾

德国德累斯顿工业大学硕士。2009年回到上海进入高校从事教学改革项目。2015年在德国法兰克福创办公司,并携全家回到德累斯顿定居。2019年收购了德累斯顿的Life Studio 这家美容院,自己创业。


美容产品介绍

  • 补水产品:玻尿酸系列
  • 抗衰老产品(抗皱):添加天然萃取物-植物干细胞(阿尔卑斯山附近的植物),或者是胜肽类的成分(各种不同长度的胜肽链)。
  • 抗痘消炎系列:微银产品。
  • 植物系列:比较温和,防过敏,适用于孕期。
  • 家护系列:清洁保湿,提亮肤色。
  • 面膜系列:是牛的胶原蛋白做的。
  • 医学理疗紧肤仪器:国内叫做超声刀。提升深度皮层的紧致,防止皮肤衰老。可以用来提拉紧致以及提升面部轮廓。

面部的产品最多,亚洲人对美白会更加关注。另外现在德国市售的产品不允许添加铅和汞,所以大部分的美白产品会用高剂量的Vitamin C。

德国的长效美妆,会直接把妆容纹在皮肤之下,两年才退。在韩国这个技术称为“半永久”,纹在真皮层里面(较浅),3个月左右就会退。

美容产品一般可以分为超市这种开架产品或者是在美容院的院系产品,院系类护肤品一般都需要咨询服务。如果是没有特殊需求,或者是刚接触的顾客,我们会推荐基础款。

男士也有护肤品的,像微银系列去可以去除痘疤和痘痕。

有些产品能对抑制皮肤黑色素的分泌有一定的效果,如果年轻的时候没有做好防晒,就特别需要来美容院咨询这类抑制黑色素产生的产品。

美容师的工作

1.皮肤清洁:

皮肤其实有很多网状的毛孔,如果堵塞了就会发炎红肿,所以保养皮肤的方法,第一步永远是清理毛孔,其次才是补水和抗衰老。美容院清洁皮肤的方法:第三代果酸:在德国第三代果酸非常流行,它的安全性和适用范围很好,可用来改善痘印和浅色斑,价格也是适中的。

2.仪器美容及理疗设备:

拔罐疗法

结合德国的机械设备的优势,开发出新型产品,可以在拔罐吸附的同时也释放压力,一分钟内可以吸吐很多次,因此不会造成淤青的痕迹,因此一般理疗师采用的比较多。

微针治疗

这类的产品有些是医用级别的,因为会有微创的伤口,基于卫生原因和预防感染,推荐找专业人员来做。

激光疗法

一般情况下不允许在美容院使用,是皮肤科医生才允许使用,但是冷激光可以在德国特殊的条件许可下在美容院使用。国内的激光疗法则需要医美的医生才可以用,一般用来治疗细纹,痘痕,痘纹等等。

3.手部护理和美甲:

我们着重手部的护理,也有简单的美甲服务,但是没太多时间做造型。

足部护理(fusspflege):

产品,服务,和仪器覆盖面之广,足以办一场关于脚部的美容展览专场。绝大多数的人都有皮肤死皮和老茧的问题。女性穿高跟鞋会有鸡眼的困扰,男性如果运动流了很多汗,却不注意足部的卫生,甚至不洗脚,容易造成真菌感染,形成足癣。有些人如果高血压或糖尿病,造成足部的血液循环不好,也可能形成糖尿病脚,导致足部发生溃烂。一些老人家,弯不下腰,不能自己修剪指甲,美容院可以帮忙做足部美容,帮助顾客的脚回复到好的状态。也会适当做理疗按摩帮助促进血液循环。

4.抗衰老:

这方面我们一定会记录顾客治疗前后的照片来做对比。抗衰老的第一关键就是皮肤的平时保养一定要好,其实我们从20岁开始,皮肤就开始在走下坡路了,无论男女,脸部皮肤松弛,下颌线掉下来就不好看了,所以提肤(lifting)是很重要的。超声刀针对皮肤的衰老,下垂,以及痘印和痘坑是很好的。

例如在双下巴的治疗,就会有提升的效果,组织中胶原蛋白生长需要时间长,所以两个星期之后,下巴会尖出来较多,整个面部和颈部之后就会很明显改善了。德国的老年人典型的问题就是容易囤积脂肪,也有水肿。如果过多晒太阳会造成皮肤老化,特别是德国人老年人相对中国人特别会出现前胸部位老化的现象。

普遍来说,顾客如果要很大的效果,我们会建议他们做医美,护肤品比较难达到。


问答环节

1.德国人美黑是怎么做的, 她们平时不用防晒吗?

审美观铁定是不一样的,德国人审美崇尚保持自然的状态。德国女生当然也很爱美的,但是不会向中国女生那样追求极致美容(完美无瑕,吹弹可破)。德国女生就会稍微修饰,认为某些部分能稍微改善就很好了。度假是有钱有闲的人才能享受的文化,所以他们会想要晒成小麦色,但是我们的客户其实也只是十分之一追求所谓的美黑。

2.欧美人为什么皮肤老的快?是不注意防晒还是保养不到位,还是单纯的人种的差异?

主要是因为基因的原因,欧美人大概20岁之后,会容易长皱纹和皮肤松弛的问题。相比之下,亚洲因为日照充足,所以亚洲人就比较容易长晒斑,因此防晒意识也比较强。

在德国,防晒的问题还是很受关注的,这个涉及到皮肤癌发病的问题。德国人如果注重保养的话,其实也是可以保养的很好的,一般愿意进美容院的人,本身就是有保养意识的,比方说我们的一位70多岁的女性顾客,只有稍微下垂的问题,其实她保养的很好。德国幼儿园老师,在夏季也会要求家长帮小孩涂好防晒霜,包里准备防晒霜,从医学角度出发防护皮肤癌。

3.能否推荐简单基础的懒人护肤方法

美容院可以帮助保护皮肤,提供专业意见。我们的皮肤本身就是我们免疫系统的第一道屏障,保护我们。

所以如果皮肤不清洁,年轻的人就会长痘痘,20岁以上之后长痘痘的原因更多了。基本上我们可以做的日常功课的三个要点分为:清洁,补水,防晒。另外压力,熬夜,饮食能导致激素变化,也会造成长痘。女性的话还要注意生理期,妊娠,哺乳等等。像我们80年代的人其实没有什么清洁护肤的概念,德国幼儿园就会要求小朋友睡觉后起来洗脸刷牙,给小孩配日霜和防晒霜。

4.怎么处理来了德国换了水土导致的长痘痘问题,我本身习惯北方的干燥气候,请问什么时候适合给肌肤补水?

长痘痘是一个综合性的问题。比如我,因为饮食或是睡眠,或者压力的原因,会生季节痘。所以保持一个综合的比较好的状态是很重要的。第一是压力管理,学习,考试,工作的压力会反应在脸上。第二是饮食调整,第三是运动。每天要保持20-30分钟的散步,出去骑车,做瑜伽,游泳,和朋友喝咖啡等等,人是需要多聊聊的,在书友会社群里面通过交流就可以缓解掉压力。

人会对未知的东西更恐惧,其实正视痘痘,做好三件事(清洁,补水,防晒),然后痘痘出现不要去抠它,它自己会掉的。如果痘印或痘坑很大的话而不能忍受,那就去医美诊所做激光。但是如果是很担心手术的人,也可以选择果酸或是微针。完全不想要有创伤的话,就可以选择微银的水来洗脸,我认为清洁的好,毛孔就会通透,皮肤自己会修复的。

护肤品的世界浩如烟海,我会给一般的顾客推荐比较简单的大牌的基础款就好,把清洁的功能做好,有单一功能补水就行,可以第一步去DM 或是Douglas 买护肤基本款。补水保濕的话,我建议使用含玻尿酸的系列。建议别买大盒包装,那种号称一瓶什么都能做到的产品,不建议作为入门的产品。德国的美容产品,价格是很规范的,不会像国内有时候会有天价的美容品。

5.护肤化妆品分为男生女生用,是不是只是一种噱头?把钱花在很贵的护肤品上还不如医美?激光手术您的美容院做吗?

要明确自己的目标:这些都是手段,其实最后要达到的还是一个目标,就像找对象一样,满意度是很重要的,花钱也好,花时间也好,要知道想达到什么样子我才满意?之后才考虑要激光,要上美容院,还是要用护肤品。

手段分为两大块:一种是借助别人来完成的(激光和热玛吉),另一种是自己在家里做的基本护理,任何手段,在家护肤这件事情是逃不掉的,人不可能不洗脸,不防晒,不补水而能有很好的皮肤的。

6.保湿用的玻尿酸是否必须年龄大的时候才能用?

玻尿酸什么时候用都是可以的,从13-14岁就可以了。玻尿酸产品各式各样,选择适合自己的,这个需要消费者做功课。它本身就存在于我们的人体,就像胶原蛋白一样,玻尿酸还没研发出来之前,我们用甘油。玻尿酸的好处是会锁水,抓住水分留在皮肤上。人体的玻尿酸含量,是小baby时最高的,出生是峰值,之后就会慢慢下降。

7.您对家用美容仪的看法?

我有很多,也是有用的,对于面部除皱是有用的(刺激胶原蛋白的再生)。家里的美容仪,功率会比美容院的低很多。

8.德国美容院会有会员制吗?比方说一年的护肤方案?

这个在国内是很流行的,但是在德国比较少的。这是营销手法和德国人消费习惯的问题。

我们通常会对顾客做一个全面的理解,压力问题,饮食问题,我们全部会调研一遍的,我们会去弄清楚他们到底想要什么,我们能不能给他们想要的,不然我们就会推荐医生给他们。


9.为什么回德国开美容院?

我原本是学教育的,工作多年,想要换一下专业。因为身为女性,对美容有兴趣,自己也有在学护理皮肤的知识,刚好机缘巧合就看到这家店要出售。

10.当时有做背景调查和风险评估吗?

15年的时候和朋友成立一家公司,对国内护肤品,美容,医美,整形医院以及产品项目做了很多调查。自己也是有一些想法。接手的这家20年老店,属于作坊式风格。我想精简化,简化化妆品到100种以内,删除所有繁琐的东西。接手美容院前,财报和税务我都有在看,是盈利的,没有负债。

但是前老板是70多岁的老人,主要没有做市场的推广。我认为德累斯顿的人口的流动是很大的,周边城市有很多年轻人来到德累斯顿。美容院是刚需,跟理发店是一样的。

11.抗衰老的问题,常听到补充胶原蛋白,但是市面上有很多内服的胶原蛋白,有效吗?

护肤的第一是清洁,第二是补水,第三是防晒,第四才是抗衰老,对抗衰老有效的活性成分很多(植物性干细胞,胜肽类产品,或混合类的等等),经济条件允许下,都可以试试的,当然最好还是要经过咨询。抗衰老方面,医美是效果最好的,更快的,然后自己在家继续保养。如果怕动刀的,就可以尝试轻医美(线雕,热玛吉,小拉皮,微声刀)。

我个人觉得内服类产品(胶原蛋白,玻尿酸,植物干细胞饮料),对身体肯定是有好处的。但是具体要看有效成分从剂型的释放速度是否合适,肠道吸收率我认为目前不高,能从肠道经由血液到达皮肤的量是不确定的。玻尿酸小分子可能相对胶原蛋白吸收率高一点。如果想快速达到效果,我建议直接打热玛吉,比买几百欧的饮品效果更快更直接。

12.热玛吉和超声刀你们美容院有做吗?

我们有冷激光刀,德国的法律要求的越来越严格。另外,我们可以推荐与我们合作的医生给顾客,技术,价格和服务都是我们信任的。

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